Thursday, January 31, 2008

PAY ATTENTION: The truth behind trends: DMAE effects on the skin (part 2)

Hi All! Let's just make it through today's post and tomorrow will be light and easy! Here's part 2 to yesterday's blog about DMAE.

These last 2 blogs are important because they illustrate how things can become a public phenomenon without hard science to back it up. Probably like most of us, I have always felt this feeling of protection, as if there were government agencies that watch over everything that a consumer might get their hands on; there was someone or some agency to protect us always. As I started learning how things worked, in other words, the older I got :-( , I soon came to see that this was not true, and probably not very possible. This is why we must be vigilant and educated as consumers and take responsibility for what we put on and into our bodies (as well as into our hearts and minds!).

Onto DMAE and the skin!
More importantly, does it work? The answer depends on what the claim is.

Products claiming that it tightens/firms the skin, well, they're probably right. The limited research (and some sponsored by cosmetics companies) have nevertheless shown that indeed there is a tightening and firming effect when using DMAE on the skin. The tightening effects diminish the appearance of wrinkles and viola! a "more youthful" look. So I agree actually that using DMAE does indeed tighten the skin and I'll agree with the fact that it may help you look younger, temporarily.

Products that claim it as an anti-aging product, thus far, this is an unfounded lie! So what's the difference between the above statement that it firms the skin and using it as an anti-aging product. Well, first of all, the tightening & firming effects are most likely direct effects of DMAE on skin cells. NOTE: This does not mean that it is preventing or even repairing the skin aging process.

HERE IS WHY:
The only research-proven effect that DMAE has on the skin is that it causes cells to increase vacuolization. Huh?? This means that applying DMAE causes skin cells to swell up (absorbing water and DMAE). Vacuoles are kind of like membrane-bound blobs that can hold food, water, enzymes, a bunch of stuff. Click on the picture below to see an illustration of a vacuole.




What does the increase in vacuolization of skin cells mean? This causes the skin cells to swell up. This, in turn, causes the skin to be plumper, looking tighter and less wrinkled. Please continue to remember, we have very limited research on what DMAE does to the skin any way! This is only one of the few research studies done on DMAE. SIDE NOTE: This vacuolization phenomenon has also been linked to other amine compounds acting on the skin like the ever popular triethanolamine, used often as a preservative.

GUESS WHAT?
The same study also demonstrated something else! Fibroblast death. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells and they are responsible for producing substances like collagen and elastin that help to form the skin tissue and give it structure and mass. Fibroblasts and the products they produce are crucial in many functions including keeping the skin plump and strong (not to mention healthy).

DON'T FREAK.
Let's put things into perspective again. Many substances in the wrong proportions can cause cell death (even vitamins, hey, even too much water causes death!). My point is this: there simply isn't enough research to know the full extent of what DMAE does to the skin, body, and mind. We do know that it certainly does affect the body, but we don't know any details! But we do know under some conditions that it can and does induce the death of some fibroblasts.

Critical thinking point:
What happens if you stop using DMAE on the skin? Well, the limited research we have shows that its "skin firming/tightening effects" will cease as well. Besides, if the effects of it were longer lasting, trust me, the cosmetics companies would be all over this claim!

Have you seen how many times I've said "most likely", "we don't know", "not enough research"? I want to reiterate that I, personally, would not use DMAE especially on my skin unless there was a lot more research conducted on it and its effects. I want proof that it's safe or at least is not damaging to the skin.

Click here to read an interview with the doctor whose research illustrated DMAE effects on cells.
PubMed link to his paper here.

Summary
Now I'm sure you can see how a product that most definitely has effects on the skin, can become a public hot seller without any safety data behind it! In fact, very little data at all. I hope these last 2 posts will help you realize that we must be more careful and be wary of what we put in and on the skin. We must also be careful where we get out information.

I SAY:
"Once an ingredient proves, not to be effective, but to be a hot seller, then the vast majority of the market will follow."

This just means that, really, skincare companies are after the bottom line. The whole fashion and beauty market runs on chasing the "next hottest thing" and you'll notice most just jump on the wagon like copycats. Effectiveness and the best interests of the consumer often lag behind the concern to make more money. This is what the modern capitalist markets have created, but at the same time, we are in an age of phenomenally increased information and knowledge that is at the tips of our fingers. In todays world, being a smart consumer means having to be a highly educated consumer. But the research will pay off in more ways than just being able to pick out a better skincare line!

To always check for the latest research publications, please go to my "LINKS OF TRUTH" on the right sidebar. Click and search the PubMed library of research journals. Don't get intimidated, click here for the tutorial page on using the site.

Peace out!
dr. david

enjoy your day . . . and tomorrow's FRIDAY !

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

"PAY ATTENTION" The truth behind trends: DMAE (PART 1)

Hello to my TRUTH in SKINCARE readers! Here's one of the first "PAY ATTENTION" articles. Let's take a trip through the making (and marketing) of a modern "anti-aging" treatment, DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol). Unlike a previous post where I talked about sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, luckily this has an abbreviation!

Heard the wonders of DMAE yet? I'm sure you have . . . the latest in the anti-aging tool cabinet. It is touted by multiple supplement and skincare companies to increase your metal clarity & focus, to help keep you younger, and to help firm, tighten and fight skin-aging. It's pretty synonymous with Dr. N.V. Perricone, as his skin line is one of the first pushers of DMAE in skincare products (he sells supplements as well :-).

I'll be addressing DMAE on 2 separate points:
1. Overall and Brain Function
2. Skin Function
Today's post will deal with point #1, the next post will deal with point #2!

THE BIG DEAL:
Basically the whole hoopla over DMAE supplements is that the body converts it into choline. DMAE is converted into choline in the liver. So what's choline? Choline is a precursor to the neurotransmitter Acetylcholine. Here's the reaction:
Increased levels of Acetylcholine can increase focus and clarity. Acetylcholine is used in the nerves of the Central Nervous System as well as other peripheral nervous systems. Many pushers of DMAE claim that it will make you more youthful, live longer, and become more intelligent, along with increased focus and alertness.

Let's start with the fact that DMAE supplementation has been tested in very limited studies and has shown to have a positive effect on increasing alertness. Ok, fine so far. Some studies have indicated that DMAE also increases brain levels of acetylcholine. Ok, great.

BUT WAIT:
Guess what? DMAE is not classified as a drug, not much research has been done on it. There are no studies on it's safety and especially it's long term effects on humans. On top of this, research is so lacking and inconclusive, one can not truly begin to state the claims that it can keep you younger and living longer. In animals, some research has shown an increased lifespan while other research has shown a decreased lifespan. Point being, we don't even know if it can help you live a longer life or a shorter life!

And I'm not done yet. There is some good research on DMAE and it's effect on embryos. This to me is the most disturbing of the research done on DMAE. Research after research has shown that DMAE has adverse effect on embryo development as well as increasing the occurrence of neural tube defects (causing diseases like spina bifida and the like). Click here for the full research article.


Now remember, as I stated before, when ingesting DMAE the body converts it mostly to choline, so it shouldn't have this effect on embryos right? Right.

A PEARL OF MEDICAL KNOWLEDGE:
Here is a little fact that is important for everyone to know: Everything that we ingest (take in orally) that is digested and absorbed . . . goes into a special network of blood vessels called the portal blood system. Blood from the esophagus all the way down to the anus and everything absorbed in between goes via veins directly to the liver first! This is an important fact.
This means that everything we ingest is processed by the liver before it is released into the "regular" blood system through out the body. The liver is a miracle of creation that processes, changes, rearranges, does all sorts of fancy reactions to things that we have ingested. Let's just say we should really be good to our livers, it is a gateway from the foods that we eat (from the outside world) to our bodies.

OK, NOW MOVING ON . . .
What is my point for talking about the liver and oral route of taking in foods/compounds/nutrients? My point is that it needs to be contrasted by other routes of taking things in. Examples of other routes of blood absorption: injections directly into the blood stream and sublingual (absorption from under the tongue). Both these routes bypass the liver when they enter the blood stream. They can eventually be processed by the liver, but this is after it gets to roam around the body in it's pre-processed state. An example: Taking nitroglycerin tablets. Many people use these tablets to treat some heart conditions (angina, heart failure, etc). It works by holding the tablet under your tongue. The blood system is rich in this area and the nitroglycerin is absorbed directly into the "regular" bloodstream and bypasses the liver. If nitroglycerin were swallowed, it would lose it's effectiveness! It would be absorbed by the veins that will take it first to the liver, where it would be altered and no longer have the effects that sublingual taken nitroglycerin does. This is why nitroglycerin is meant to be kept under the tongue and not swallowed, so that it can directly enter the blood stream.

And we are finally starting to get to point 2: Skincare function.
Guess what? When you apply things to your skin (assuming they can be absorbed deeper into the skin and into the bloodstream) you have a route that again bypasses the liver!!! So, if DMAE could be absorbed into the skin, it would be acting in the body and blood stream differently than if it were taken as an oral supplement. It would be bypassing the liver and acting in an "unprocessed" state.

Critical thinking point:
If companies and doctors such as Perricone are stating that DMAE is absorbed by the skin, than shouldn't they also weigh the dangers associated with it's absorption by this method. Click here to see in Perricone's own words how he recommends topical DMAE in a "special vehicle" for better skin cell absorption. I believe that, at least, if one is claiming that DMAE is absorbed by the skin, any product containing it should at least be labeled as NOT TO BE TAKEN DURING PREGNANCY. After all, research in animals is conclusive in showing the damgaing and often fatal effects that DMAE has on embryos (albeit in higher doses than we would even be able to apply through skincare products).

SIDE NOTE
Don't get too scared here. The truth is, that most concentrations of DMAE and it's resistance to full absorption from the skin into the blood, may very well prevent serious effects from taking place to an embryo. But to be on the safe side, I would certainly not recommend its use during pregnancy. Many supplements carry this warning, but funny how no skin care product carries this warning. If any product should carry this warning it should be the skincare products, since any DMAE that would enter the body through the skin would remain as DMAE (versus being converted to a much more safer choline, by the liver when DMAE is ingested).

NEXT POST
PART 2: THE ACTUAL EFFECTS OF DMAE ON THE SKIN! (You'll be surprised).
This post will really be even more relevant to skincare. I'll tell you what DMAE actually does to the skin!

click here to see what Dr. Weil has to say about DMAE
click here to see an article so as not to be too alarmed by DMAE and to put things into perspective (although it doesn't acknowledge possible effects on embryos)
click here for a safety profile from the hazardous substances databank

In summary:
DMAE may hold some promise in the treatment or understanding of certain diseases (such as Huntington's, Alzheimers). But guess what? WE NEED MORE RESEARCH on DMAE, it's possible applications, and it's safety profile, especially long term effects. It is sad to see something like DMAE being promoted so highly, without the research to back it up. This is just one example of many supplements that can have a significant effect on the human body, yet doesn't have the science to back up the why, how, and when it should be used.

Other posts in the future will address why there is such lack of interest in the U.S. for actually doing the research into these supplements.

REMEMBER: I am a doctor, but I am not your doctor. Any information in my posts is meant to broaden your thinking and is not a substitute for medical care given by a medical professional. These posts are meant to shed light on the truths of the skincare industry, not to provide treatment in any form.

Monday, January 28, 2008

"PAY ATTENTION " Articles: Intro

Hi Readers.

I wanted to introduce you to the "PAY ATTENTION" blog/article title. It denotes the importance of reading these articles with particular attention and awareness. Pieces like these are the heart of the "TRUTH in SKINCARE" blog.

I feel these articles are the best way that I can contribute my services to you, the reader. You can understand where I'm coming from by paying particular attention to these blogs.

It is pieces like the "PAY ATTENTION" articles that I think can make up a "good, healthy, fat-free" diet of reading. From gossip mags to the internet, books to newspapers, we can all do a lot of reading on a typical day. I can sometimes find myself lost in a sea of people's comments and opinions, and plain-old junk journalism. Everyone's gotta say somethin' about somebody.

I will give my best to make sure this site and especially these articles are not sensationalized. We get enough of that bombarded at us and, personally, I'm over it.

HOW TO APPROACH THESE ARTICLES:

  • Pay attention when you read. These articles are meant to either be remembered or to be thought through critically. It'll be fun; like reading comprehension on those darn tests, which always gave me a :'-(
  • Please know that I think these are the best articles of the blog (I could be wrong! So feel free to let me know :-)
  • Use INTEGRATED THINKING. Approach these pieces with all your faculties and all of your resources. An open, yet highly critical mind. Engage your senses, intuitions, your emotional states, and, most importantly, your instincts. After all, isn't this how we were designed to learn best?
Thank You
&
Peace out
dr. d

Who owns what in the beauty landscape?

With all the skincare lines out there, it seems like an endless sea of brands and products. Truth is, there are relatively few skincare companies who own and run almost all the brands. And, usually, this means, you'll find similar (if not the same) formulas across many of their brand lines. Same product, Different package. This way the companies also save mega bucks on ordering from their suppliers as well. What I would do (and this applies to drugstore brands as well) to get the best savings is compare formulas owned by the same companies and if they're similar, just buy the cheaper one!

What's interesting to me, is that each brand still carries a "mystique" to it, some sound French, some Asian, but in reality . . . all from the same corporate warehouse! For example, a line called ReVive (and sold at hundreds of dollars for a product :-( )sounds French, and their products are written with French words like "intensite creme lustre" (spelled with the accents and all, which I can't find on my blog writer right now). But it's not French, no at all, American all the way, from formulators to producers!

Wanna see who owns what? Click here for a great summary by Charlotte at Kiss and Make Up.

In future blogs, I'll be writing about how to better read ingredients on labels and to get some inside tips to decipher how much of an ingredient is really in the product!

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Weekend edition: A MUST READ BOOK!

Make this the first beauty book you read!! Color Stories by Mary Lisa Gavenas is a phenomenal and eye-opening book into the (very scary) world of the beauty industry. I ran across this book and was surprised that this book is still not on the top seller list. To be honest, books like these should be a mandatory read in every person's life (and the younger the better). They give an insight to the workings of the real world and the utterly real and dark side of Capitalism.

Mary Lisa served as beauty editor for Mirabella, In Style, and Glamour . . . so if anyone can tell you about the workings of the beauty industry, it's her. Usually most people in these positions go along with the lies and deceptions of the industry, so I give her extra kudos for exposing us to the truths!

In this book you'll learn amazing facts that'll open your eyes such as . . .

  • Learn why you can't put any trust in magazing recommendations of beauty and fashion products.
  • Learn how when a magazine says makeup is by 'X' brand, it simply is NOT true.
  • Learn how "hot" styles, colors, and products have nothing to do with real art, but are just products of large corporate industry machinations.
  • Learn how the cosmetics world can literally get away with murder.
  • What really goes on backstage at a fashion show.
  • Learn that makeup artists use different makeup in their actual work vs. what their lines' sell.
All in all, this book is a quick read (and you won't be able to put it down!). This helps you put your thoughts into perspective about how the beauty industry works. So before you fall for another (multi-million dollar) ad campaign designed ONLY to get you to buy buy buy, please read this book!

BTW . . . I am in no way connected to this book, nor am I endorsed by or paid by anyone related to this book. My glowing review is because this book is truly a relevant and must read book in anyone's life, especially if you spend money on skincare and cosmetics (this should cover just about everyone!).

So go out and read this book, it'll make for a fun and terrific read . . .
Click HERE to learn more about this book by going to it's website.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

INGREDIENT WATCH: Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

It's Friday! Finally. My favorite day! Today I wanted to give you a heads up on a preservative called Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate (yeah, it's a mouthful!). I have found way too many companies and websites touting how it is a "natural preservative" or trying to whitewash it by saying it's a gentle preservative based on natural amino acid glycine. Some claim that it's safer and better than parabens because it won't release formaldehyde. Guess what? All false!

Unfortunately, people and companies often get carried away and will do just about anything to make their products more marketable. There's been a large number of "natural" product makers that have been less than truthful by touting Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate as a natural preservative and I'll repeat again: this is simply NOT true! It is true that it is based on glycine (a natural amino acid) but lets take a look at what they look like chemically. Pictured on top is Glycine and below it is Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate. Needless to say, it requires an extremely heavy and synthetic industrial process to produce sodium hydroxymethylglycinate.




Some more facts: Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is actually a skin and eye irritant. In both test animals and humans. Even after washing with water it can burn your eyes. Some time back, I had a friend who was sprayed in the eye with a facial spray that contained this preservative, and let's just say, he was not very happy! It stung and irritated his eyes for hours.

I personally don't have sensitive skin, not in the least, and have only been bothered by one skincare product to date (thank God!). It was a body scrub that contained sodium hydroxymethylglycinate. Later on, I was doing some product development and was experimenting with this preservative. (And I always test on myself first). To be honest, I was very disappointed by it. It is true that it does have effective preservative properties, covering a broad spectrum of microbes, but its negative qualities are just too much.

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate smells highly rancid, and even at concentrations of less than 1% can burn and irritate the skin. I learned this lesson by creating a prototype face spray with even less than 1% Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate . . . let's just say I was sorry! My usually nonreactive face was red, irritated, itchy and a hot mess. Needless to say, any idea of using it in products gets a "HECK NO" from me. One of the inherent properties of using this preservative is that is really does smell bad, which sometimes can lead product makers to dilute it too much (where it loses it's effectiveness) or to use additional masking agents to overpower the rancid smell of this ingredient in the product.

A lot of impetus for the use of sodium hydroxymethyglycinate is because of the false "cancer" scare related to paraben use (which is highly unwarranted). Even the cancer societies have dismissed these baseless assertions. Another tactic used to promote sodium hydroxymethylglycinate is claiming that it won't breakdown into formaldehyde like some paraben-containing preservatives. Actually, this isn't true either. Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate can breakdown into formaldehyde and glycine (although these are quite negligible reactions). In later blogs, I will give a huge report on preservatives in skincare and everything you could possibly ever want to know!

My Recommendations: Read product labels carefully and see if this preservative is one of them. Personally I wouldn't recommend using it. I especially think people with sensitive skin should stay away from Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate. In truth, there have been no studies on the long term effects of this preservative on this skin.

Summary:
  • Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is NOT a natural preservative.
  • It is actually a skin and eye irritant.
  • Not recommended for sensitive skin.
  • No long term studies on the effect on the skin.
  • Not many research studies done on Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate PERIOD.
  • Click here for the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate.
So, next time you hear the overblown benefits of sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, you'll know the real truths! Again, I'll repeat what I've said in previous blogs. I am a HUGE fan of natural products and would love to see the day when we can discover natural (and truly effective) preservatives for skincare use! But that day is not today. I am a very big advocate of non-profits whose mission is to protect endangered plants, especially of possible medicinal use. (But more on that in a later blog)

One more piece of advice, all skincare products MUST contain preservatives, especially if they contain natural ingredients. Every once in a while I come across people touting their "preservative-free" products. THIS IS SERIOUSLY A HAZARD. Would you keep milk out for months at a time? No, cause we know it'll get bad, and so will our skincare products without the use of an effective preservative system. They only way we wouldn't need to use preservatives is if we made skincare products fresh ourselves (like every week!) and use them within a couple/few days. I'm sure hardly any of us have the time to do that consistently!

Well, enjoy your wonderful Friday and have a happy, healthy weekend!! I hope you enjoy reading my blogs and feel free to email me any question you may have! Let me know what you think of the blog and what you'll like to hear more or less of! And I hope I don't have to ever keep repeating "sodium hydroxymethylglycinate" as many times as I have in this blog!
XO

HOW THINGS WORK: The FDA can't order product recalls.

It's true. The FDA has no authority to order a cosmetic product's recall. So whenever you read a statement "The FDA orders the recall of . . . " then you can be in the know, and know that the media has their facts wrong.

However, the FDA does act in a supportive role in the product recall process. They monitor the recall process, help in public notification, evaluate health hazards of the product involved, as well as ensure the products are destroyed or corrected. The FDA can sometimes request a company to recall a product that the FDA has deemed unsafe, but it is at the company's discretion to act on this request or not. Only in cases of human tissue products, medical devices, and baby formulas, does the FDA have more power to order a recall.

But this is not all bad. After all, many recalls are done without intervention from the FDA. And there are questions as to whether the FDA should have such power anyway. The FDA is notoriously prone to serious conflicts of interest within the organization and with their scientists' financial interests as well (more on all these issues in coming blogs!).

So what can we do? Do you want to stay on top of product recalls? The FDA maintains a website that lists current (and frequently updated) recalls, market withdrawals, and health hazards. Click here for that website.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Reading Labels: Does Alcohol-Free REALLY mean Alcohol-Free?

Good Morning! A seemingly simple claim, but a not so simple answer. A lot of you already know that labels say "Alcohol-free" but their ingredients actually list alcohols in them, so what gives?
Well, in terms of labeling, a company is allowed to say "Alcohol-free" if it doesn't contain ethyl alcohol (i.e. SD Alcohol) in its product. (It also must not contain methyl or isopropyl alcohol either, but these latter 2 alcohols should NOT be in skincare products anyway. And if any of you spot either methyl or isopropyl alcohol in any skincare product, please email me so that I can look into it!)
An alcohol is really just a classification of an ingredient based on its chemical structure. In truth, we can't really live without alcohols in one form or another. Alcohols that are the smallest (with the fewest amount of carbon atoms, like the ones stated above) tend to be what are known as the "drying" alcohols. They evaporate quickly and tend to have a "drying" effect on the skin and can be quite harsh. These are the alcohols (and we're talking mostly SD Alcohol) that the label "Alcohol-free" is referencing.
You may find other alcohols like cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or lanolin alcohol within the ingredients of these "Alcohol-free" products and that is because these are larger and what are also known as "fatty alcohols" (this is because they are usually derived from fats or oils). They tend not to be drying and many have good benefits for the skin and can actually help draw moisture into the skin.
So, in a nutshell, when a product claims "Alcohol-free" it means it doesn't have the skin-drying SD Alcohol, while it may contain a number of other "non-drying" alcohols. So "Alcohol-free" doesn't technically mean alcohol free! It's not meant to be misleading, but it is truly a less than perfect use of terminology (incorrect actually) but its main purpose is to indicate that the product does not contain a drying alcohol.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Easy Mondays: SD ALCOHOL: what is it?

Good Monday Morning! As a general rule of thumb, I'll try and keep Monday's blogs simple and light, maybe use it to prep for the rest of the week. Mondays are tough enough already, I certainly won't want to add to the stress!
A side note: did you know that heart attacks are most frequent on Mondays . . . not hard to imagine why!

Today we'll bring up one of the most common ingredients in skincare, SD Alcohol. A lot of you already know what this is, but let's just go over it again! Basically it's really just ethyl alcohol (pictured in 3D molecular form above), or plain old drinking alcohol found in liquors, beer, and wine. It has just one little difference, and that's where the "SD" comes into play. SD stands for "Specially Denatured". What does that mean? This just means that a special chemical has been added to the ethyl alcohol to make it undrinkable. To prevent inappropriate consumption of cosmetics products for their alcohol content, the government requires the addition of the ingredient denatonium benzoate (pictured below).


Denatonium benzoate is literally know to be one of the bitterest tasting compounds ever! It is so bitter that only about 1 part denatonium benzoate is used in 20,000 parts alcohol. So basically if you had 20,000 gallons of alcohol you'd only need to add one gallon denatonium benzoate to make it bitter enough to not be drinkable. That's bitter!

So that's what SD Alcohol is . . . just regular drinking alcohol with the most minute amount of nasty tasting denatonium benzoate to make it undrinkable.

Critical Thinking: A lot of you are probably already are wanting to know more about this so-called denatonium benzoate. What the heck is it anyway? Do we know if it's really safe? I'm getting there . . .
Most research shows that it is quite harmless. Many a poor rat has been given way more of this substance than could realistically ever be consumed. There's been no adverse reactions or any known detrimental effects even in large amounts. It has been shown to be toxic at only extremely high levels (in human terms, let's say a 150 pound person would have to eat rougly over a pound of the stuff, and that's not going to happen).

Well, enjoy the rest of your MONDAY! And we'll talk more about alcohols later this week!

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Ingredient Blogs: Learning about common product ingredients

One of the features of this blog will be small and easy to digest pieces about common ingredients in products. So much of product label ingredients are so hard to decipher like "cyclopentasiloxane" or "PEG" . . . I mean what the heck are these? Unfortunately, for almost all of us, it just resigns us to be content with just not knowing. But that's not the TRUTH in SKINCARE way!

Actually, these ingredients usually just sound scary . . . but even if you can't really pronounce them, the reasons they are used, what they do, and their properties can usually be easily explained. One of my goals with this blogsite is to feature small blogs on one ingredient at a time to show you that it's really not scary and before you know it, you can pick up a label and smile and just think to yourself . . . "I know what that is" or maybe you'll say "what the heck are you doing in this product mr. bad ingredient?!?"

I promise to try and keep it light and easy to understand. After all, most of you blog readers are quite educated on skincare and this is just a great complementary way to increase your skincare knowledge!

Friday, January 18, 2008

Why I started this blog . . . (a rare, sappy heart to heart moment)

First of all I want to thank you, my readers and future readers, for taking precious time out of your lives to read my blogs. If you read, I'll write. The blogging world is full of great beauty bloggers and there is no doubt that interest in looking good and taking care of our skin will continue to grow. What has been missing are the voices of scientist/physicians that blog solely on the facts and can help the millions of skincare consumers begin to understand the truths about skincare.

I often go around to skincare counters and have visited every major skincare line. One doesn't realize just how dramatic the lies and deceptions are within the industry unless one can truly understand the how, what, and why of the skincare business and skincare science. I could not describe to you how awe-struck I have been; I still can't believe that it is legal to blatantly lie to consumers about products. I was fed up! I am an AMERICAN and I will not tolerate this manipulation of consumers, especially by forces that care only about their profit margins (not to mention investing millions of dollars into psychological marketing techniques to manipulate customers to achieve their end cause). Thus, this blog was borne, and not to be negative or angry, but to just state truths and educate the public. After all, an educated consumer is the best antidote to companies that prey on vulnerability. With technology promising to truly empower consumers with readily available information, the future will hold companies even more responsible to their business conducts.

I am taking a conscious decision to effect as much positive change in the world as I possibly can, mostly through education and speaking the truth, and, most importantly, leading through example. This is why TRUTH in SKINCARE was a perfect outlet for me to put my best skills to their best use. It has also been amazing dealing with fellow bloggers. I think that one must naturally be a warm and wonderful person to be a blogger, at least that easily describes most of the bloggers I have encountered.

Rest assured, I come with an open mind in approaching skincare, respecting ancient wisdoms and the truths of modern science. I am a fan of both ancient and modern knowledge and believe that when we combine knowledges and find their common ground, we can grow best from here. Just like with everything, including religions and cultures, if we can start with what we have in common (instead of dividing ourselves based on our differences) the synergy from this could catapult humanity to real success. I mean, really, if we just focused on our common beliefs we probably wouldn't have time to get to our differences!! And we would certainly love and respect one another more.

This blog will take up a significant portion of my time, and I write everything myself unless noted otherwise. I certainly could pursue other ventures instead of blogging that would be financially rewarding, but, rest assured, I am not in this for the monetary gains. I believe that we take nothing with us besides our actions and beliefs. I choose to invest my time in this blog because it is one of the best things I feel I can do to help people. (cause i love you all :-).

Okay, enough of this mushy stuff . . .

I hope you enjoy my blogs on TRUTH in SKINCARE and I appreciate any and all emails!

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Will my deodorant give me cancer or Alzheimer's?

For years now there's been a debate on whether aluminum containing compounds (which comprise the active part of the vast majority of deodorants) contribute to or may cause cancer or Alzheimer's disease. Unfortunately, but just like clockwork, this leads to unscrupulous (or just plain ignorant) people trying to take advantage of this situation.

I'm sure many of you have come across people or companies trying to sell "natural" or aluminum-free deodorants. Unfortunately, many of these marketers are really looking out for their profits! Many of them assert that aluminum pretty much causes cancer and Alzheimer's or that there is a definitive link. . . as if they knew! Even the top researchers don't know! This blog is dedicated to shedding some much needed light about the subject and what you can actually do to be a smart TiS (that's Truth in Skincare) consumer!

Don't get me wrong, I am all about nature, and almost always support using naturally found ingredients/components over synthesized ones (because, after all, things found in their natural state are usually safer and better for us). I even have an organic, aluminum-free, natural-based deodorant of my own (more about that later in this blog!). Back to the point, my biggest concern is with people who take extremist views on issues without fully understanding the facts, or even worse, just manipulating truths for their own gain (usually money or notoriety).


THE FACTS: Research shows conflicting data and even more conflicting results about the involvement of aluminum in either cancer or Alzheimer's. Aluminum in the body is not all that shocking actually. Aluminum is the most abundant metal on the planet! It's actually unavoidable to be exposed to it! In fact, significant research shows that even industrial grade exposure to aluminum may not be a health threat. However, it is not fully known what role aluminum may play in the above diseases, if any. It seems that Aluminum can only (possibly) reach a toxic level in patients with kidney disease (chronic renal failure). Most research also shows that dermal (skin) exposure to aluminum is completely safe. Of note: the way that aluminum naturally reacts with the skin, it is EXTREMELY UNLIKELY that it can penetrate beyond the most superficial layers!

So you want to be safe? Look around first, the truth is we are probably internalizing more aluminum by drinking, eating, breathing it (and, oh yeah, we also use aluminum in vaccines so we're pretty much being injected with it too). The reason why it is used in vaccines is because of how safe it is thought to be.

CRITICAL THINKING POINTS: Sure, under normal circumstances let's say the Aluminum can't get into the body through the skin. But certainly, and mostly for women, shaving the underarms changes what we consider "normal conditions." When we shave, we can introduce small cuts & nicks in the skin. This can most definitely allow for easier access of molecules into our bloodstream and into our body. Many deodorants contain a warning not to use on newly shaven, broken, or irritated skin. This is smart advise. Some research, although far from substantive and definitely not definitive, has indicated a possible correlation between shaving/use of aluminum deodorant to breast cancer.

MY ADVICE: The truth is we probably don't have to worry about our deodorants. It is also for certain that aluminum-based deodorants work much better than ones that don't contain aluminum. If you want to switch to an aluminum-free natural-based deodorant, than more power to you. If you feel they are effective for you, then that's great, but, for most people, these natural based deodorants aren't effective enough for daily use.
I personally use an aluminum-free, natural-based deodorant sometimes (usually on days when I won't be leaving the house :-). This is not because it doesn't work, it works fine, but I just wouldn't take any chances in public, and, besides, I like to use deodorants with a combo anti-perspireant effect. I like to smell fresh and stay dry! I use a regular aluminum-based deodorant and am happy with it.

SUMMARY POINTS:

  • don't use deodorants after freshly shaving (making it best to shave at night)
  • don't use on broken or irritated skin
  • maybe think about using an aluminum free deodorant on days when you don't need reliable deodorant coverage
  • if aluminum-free deodorants work for you and you're happy, then go ahead and use them regularly.
Peace Out
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Saturday, January 5, 2008

LIP CARE GONE TO POT! Lip Care Hygiene.

Ok . . . now I know you all love those lip balms in those oh-so-cute tubs, jars, etc. But, unfortunately, I'm here to